Pork, to me, can be pretty boring. It is often overcooked
and as a result dry. A lot of people also do not properly season their meat,
meaning they do not apply the right amount of salt and pepper. When I was in
school, our chef instructors’ biggest criticisms used to be that our dishes
needed more seasoning. A good marinade or spice and/or herb rub can be really
helpful when it comes to seasoning your meat but be sure to taste them first. On
the salt side of seasoning, sodium intake should be considered for health
reasons but if you are not on a special diet, you should make it your goal to
season your food adequately. You will be amazed at how the flavor will be
enhanced in your food. Even sweet concoctions tend to have at least a pinch of
salt to help bring out the flavor. If you are on a low-sodium diet, there are
some really tasty marinades and rubs that will keep sodium in check. If you
need to scale back on the sodium, just be sure to overcompensate with other
flavors so you don’t have boring meat.
I think I covered lackluster pork in the flavor department,
now on to the issue of dryness. Growing up I always learned that pork had to be
cooked to well-well done because of the fear of Trichinosis. I don’t know much
about what happens to you when you get Trichinosis
but I do know that if you cook your pork to 138 degrees, you won’t get it. When
I worked for Food Arts, I used to
attend a lot of food and wine events in New York City. I ate a lot of good food
and I don’t think I ever had overcooked pork. In fact, I think it tended to be
more on the medium-rare side in many cases. I don’t really enjoy it when it’s
medium rare but I do like a little pink in the middle and it’s perfectly safe
that way. For that reason, I typically cook stuffed pork loins and tenderloins
until the middle is 140-145 degrees and whole loins and tenderloins until 150-155
degrees. Just be sure that your thermometer is accurate. (Technique: Place your thermometer in ice water for 5 minutes. It
should read 32 degrees.) The temperature will also raise a few degrees while
the meat is resting. Resting=important. I can’t stress that enough. DO NOT cut
into your meat until it has been sitting at least 10 minutes out of the oven or
the juice will escape the meat and it will be dry. The juices need to recede
back into the meat once it has stopped cooking.
You can stuff your pork loin or tenderloin with anything.
I usually use whatever vegetables I have on hand and in this case, I used
apples since I have so many left over from a recent apple-picking excursion.
The apples and sage give the dish a nice impression of fall and make the pork very tasty. There are a couple of ways to flatten out a pork loin so you can stuff it but I
used the “butterfly” technique, which is explained below, since it was a
smaller loin. I chose to cook it by coating the loin with all-purpose flour and
sautéing it in butter, before finishing it off in the oven. The butter and flour give it a wonderful, yet light, golden-brown crust. If you want a simple pan sauce when you’re done,
remove the loin from the pan and place the pan on a medium-high burner. Pour about
a half cup of white wine, like a Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc, into the pan,
scraping up the brown bits (called suc-pronounced “suke”), and cook for a few
minutes. Strain the liquid, skim off any fat at the top, season if necessary
and drizzle over the sliced meat. Enjoy!
Apple-Stuffed Pork Loin
Serves 4
Ingredients:
1.5 lb. pork loin
Salt
Pepper
Cinnamon
1 tablespoon
chopped sage
½ shallot, sliced
½ large or ¾ small
apple, sliced
1 tablespoon
all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon
butter
Equipment:
Cutting board
Boning knife
Waxed paper
Meat pounder
3-12” pieces of
cooking twine
Large sauté pan
Meat thermometer
Procedure:
-Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
-Place meat on a cutting board and butterfly the loin. (Technique: Envision an imaginary line along
the longest side of the loin. Place your non-dominant hand on top of the meat
and with the other hand, take a boning knife(or paring knife if you don’t have
one) and cut along that imaginary line, from one end to the other, leaving one
side intact. (Repeat the cutting motion as many times as necessary.) It will look just like a hot dog bun sitting
on its side. Open up the meat like you would open a book.) Place waxed
paper on the meat and pound it so it flattens out. If the meat starts to tear,
stop pounding that section and move on to the next so the meat is evenly
flattened.
-Sprinkle 3 generous pinches each of salt and cinnamon and
2 generous pinches of pepper all over one side of the meat. Cover with sage, shallots
and apples and starting at one long end, tightly roll the meat, keeping the
shallots and apples inside.
-With the 3 pieces of cooking twine, tie up the loin
on both ends and in the middle. (Technique:
When tying the knot, loop it twice before pulling the ends for a tighter knot.
Repeat.)
-Sprinkle 3 pinches of salt and 2 of pepper all over the
outside of the meat (Technique: When
sprinkling, keep your hand high so the salt and pepper disperse evenly and over
a wide range.). Coat with flour and set aside.
-Heat the butter in a large sauté pan over
medium/medium-high heat. Cook loin on all sides for 3-4 minutes per side, or
until golden-brown on each side. Once the loin is turned to the final side for
browning, place the pan in the oven and cook until a thermometer in the center
reads 140-145 degrees, 25-30 minutes.
- Rest for 10 minutes, slice and serve.
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