Sunday, November 4, 2012

Quick Cinnamon Scones

Yesterday morning was really cold for Virginia (30’s) considering it was in the 80’s about a week ago. It was a good morning for a hot cup of coffee, especially after I froze during my morning run. I needed a little something extra so I sprinkled some cinnamon on my coffee. I figured it tasted good, it smelled amazing and it might even soothe my sore muscles since it is supposed to help with inflammation. (That’s one of those holistic things that needs to be confirmed by more research but mentally, it made me feel better.) The cinnamon tasted so good, I needed more so I decided to bake some cinnamon scones. On a cold morning, nothing is better than the smell of fresh-baked goods wafting through the air and scones are a great quick fix if you desire something warm and delicious to pull out of the oven. But the best part for me is they always make me think of my chaotic days back in the pastry kitchen.
 
When I worked at Mesa Grill, I was on the morning-brunch shift for much of the time. We made everything from A to Z. Biscuits, scones, coffee cake, muffins, rolls-you name it. The thing about NY restaurants is there is no room for error. Everything had to be perfect every time so when you worked in one of those restaurants, you learned quickly to hone in on your skills. There was no mercy when you made a mistake. It was known throughout the pastry kitchen-we were warned early on- that if you made a mistake, you had to throw it in the trash immediately. Bobby did not come back to our hole-in-the-wall space often but when he did, he would bust you immediately if you slipped up. We called it Flay-dar. There was one story-confirmed and not urban legend-of when he was out for a run on a Saturday morning. He never came in the restaurants on Saturday mornings but on that particular morning he decided to detour through his kitchens. He wandered into the pastry kitchen and pulled a scone from the cooling rack. There were at least a dozen trays of varied-baked goods cooling but he managed to pull a scone from the one tray that had been overcooked. The chef had set them there to cool before throwing them away but he or she also happened to set them on the cooling rack that the wait staff would go to for items to fill bread baskets. He was p-o’d big time. From that point on, everyone knew that if you ever made a mistake, trash the evidence immediately before Chef Bobby could catch you because he always did. If that wasn’t a way to instill fear of screwing up, I don’t know what was. If you made enough mistakes, there was a line of chefs who were waiting to take your place and work for meager pay.
 
Thankfully, out of fear, eagerness to learn, or simply having a perfectionist personality, I learned a lot of baking tricks. Scones seem simple but there are quite a few things to keep in mind when making them. First, everything should be cold. If you want rise, you need to surprise those butter bits in the oven so they cook up and not sideways. Second, you do not want to overwork the dough. Only combine it until it just comes together. It needs to be homogenous, but not worked into submission or the scones will be tough and won’t rise well. You should work quickly and get them into a hot oven as soon as you are done sprinkling sugar on the dough. I can make them in 30 minutes, start to finish, including clean up. Practice makes a difference! When cutting the scones, coat your bench scraper (see photo below) or knife with flour between every cut. If you don’t, the dough will seal on the sides and, again, not rise properly. I also don’t sprinkle sugar on them if I need to wrap them up because it gives them a weird coating once unwrapped.
 
Some recipes use eggs either in the dough or brushed on the dough, but I do not because I don’t like a lot of color on my scones. Eggs facilitate browning. If you want mini scones, shape the dough into a square, cut it in half and then cut triangles from there. You should result in twice as many scones. If you would like to make a different flavor, you can omit the cinnamon, add some lemon or orange zest (about a tablespoon), dried fruit like raisins, cranberries or blueberries (about a half a cup). If you do fresh berries, freeze them first. Add the berries or dried fruit with the buttermilk.
 
You can make this recipe by hand or with a food processor. Both techniques are below. It takes a little longer by hand but you will be less likely to overwork the dough. I often cheat and use a food processor when I am pressed for time so don't feel bad if you go with that method.

My last tip for success: try to eat your scones warm, sitting down and with a good, hot beverage. Enjoy!


Flaky Cinnamon Scones
Makes 8
 
Ingredients:
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, cold
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for counter
¼ cup organic sugar, plus 1 tablespoon for sprinkling
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons strong cinnamon
¾ cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon heavy cream
 
Equipment:
Large baking sheet
Silicone mat to fit baking sheet OR parchment paper
Large bowl
Food processor
(If using the hand method, you need either 2 dinner knives or a pastry cutter)
Fork
Large knife or bench scraper (see photo above)
Pastry brush

Procedure:
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line baking sheet with silicone mat or parchment paper.
2. Cut butter into 32 small pieces (see photos). Place in refrigerator until ready to use.
3. Combine dry ingredients (2 cups flour, ¼ cup sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon) in a large bowl.
 
 
4. Hand Method: Whisk dry ingredients to combine. Add butter and blend either with two knives, cutting with a scissor motion, or a pastry cutter. Cut until butter is the size of peas and the mixture resembles textured sand. Continue to Step 5.
Food Processor Method: Place dry ingredients in food processor and blend for 10 seconds or so to aerate. Add butter and pulse 5-7 times until butter is the size of small peas and the mixture resembles textured sand. Place in large bowl. Continue to Step 5.
5. Add buttermilk and toss with a fork until a dough begins to form. Lightly flour the counter and place the dough on the counter, kneading  a few times until a cohesive dough forms. (Technique: to knead, fold dough in half, make a quarter turn clockwise, fold in half again, turn a quarter of the way again. Repeat only if needed.) Do not over knead!
 
6. Shape into a circle, with your hands, that is 1 inch high. With a bench scraper or long knife, cut into 8 wedges. (Technique: Coat bench scraper or knife with flour between every cut to ensure proper rising.)
7. Place wedges on baking sheet and brush with heavy cream and sprinkle with remaining sugar. Bake for approximately 12 minutes, or until scones just begin to brown. Cool 10 minutes and enjoy!

2 comments:

  1. I think I can even make these Liz! Thanks for sharing, they look delicious!

    ReplyDelete